http://wearethemarket.com/lucio-vanotti-ss13-presentation-interview-milan/
Interview by Caterina Coccioli
Photography courtesy of Lucio Vanotti
We talked with Lucio Vanotti on the occasion of his Milanese presentation, set up inside the suggestive court of Palazzo Durini, right in the city center. We sat down with Vanotti to discover the designer’s personality and understand his rigorous and evocative aesthetic, as well as his collaboration in the film project MISOCROMIA.
What’s the concept of your last collection?
As suggested by its name, “SLEEPWALKER,” my SS13 is dominated by a sense of suspension where the gap between public and private, sleep and awake, otium and negotium, is nullified with a precise and quick gesture.
You presented your new collection together with a fashion film “Misocromia” directed by Leone Balduzzi. Tell us something about this collaboration…
It’s been a natural, creative encounter. Leone Balduzzi with K48 production contacted me to collaborate at their project MISOCROMIA and I found their idea very appealing. It’s been very interesting, seeing my clothes living inside a story.
In your press release you describe your collection as ”Rational, essential that leads to avoid everything that’s superfluous.” In a way, does your collection philosophy reflect your personality? Are you a rational person?
Yes and no…I’m, for sure, not a lover of the superfluous. I like to live with few simple but beautiful things. I like a useful and essential environment, but at the same time I’m fascinated with very rich and decorated places and I think that also my personality reflects this aesthetic bipolarity.
What are the decades of fashion that most interest you?
I think that the 20’s had set the aesthetic standards for the present. I like all from that period: music, cinema, art and fashion, they’re ages suspended between the wars; almost out of history.
What do you think of the fashion currently produced by emergent designers?
I believe it’s the real alternative, finally something new and free is growing far from the giants of fashion. It’s so sad seeing as many people in line in front of Louis Vuitton or Prada as a McDonald’s, that at least is cheap! I hope that small design realities could gain more space, not with the aim of becoming the new stars of fashion, but simply for being free to create and work for ourselves as a community. Be free!
Do you find any difficulty to communicate your taste and your message to other people? Who are the most difficult players in the fashion industry to reach as an emerging designer?
I don’t find any difficulties. I’m very happy that my message is understood and appreciated from the people that surround me, I don’t care of being understood by everyone.
What are some of your favorite stores and websites you take inspiration from?
I’m usually very autonomous in creating my own inspirations. I don’t look at many websites, I get easily bored with all this talking about fashions and figures. I prefer experimental stores from emergent designers, for example in Paris I appreciated the Christophe Lemaire shop. I prefer individually built concept stores and pure aesthetic, not all of those places stuffed with what is fashionable now.
What is your favorite piece of any of your collections?
A blue crew-neck sweater
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